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The Old Cross Inn
Blairgowrie
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Traditional fare
The Old Cross Inn is at the edge of Blairgowrie on the Alyth Road, an inviting rural, Victorian sandstone building.
The new owner, Liam Leask, runs it with his partner Claire.
After creating the successful Café Rouge in Edinburgh’s Frederick Street, they have opted to try their hands at the pub and restaurant in this idyllic surrounding.
I was pleasantly surprised at what the Old Cross had to offer, having experienced the few other hotels and restaurants in Blairgowrie–a sleepy wee country town about sixteen miles north of Perth and nineteen north-west of Dundee. For one thing, the Old Cross is the only place in Blairgowrie where you can get a meal any time of the day or evening and all the food is fresh. No package stuff!
A main course with fresh fish, for example, is only £5, compared to £7 plus for a course frozen fish being served in an eatery not a ten-minute walk away.
The restaurant is what I’d call "human"–small enough to give you contact with other diners and large enough if you prefer privacy. It’s homely and the decor is the owner’s personal taste. So you feel like you’re invited into the family lounge. You know you’re not in a franchise made to order by some trendy, metropolitan designer, clueless about local tradition and rural surroundings!
Still, this is a restaurant and one with ambience. It’s a fine balance: classy enough but unpretentious. You can have a pub lunch there or a three-course meal.
They have kept the chef who was with the original owners. Only he’s now got the opportunity to show his mettle. He’s offering both traditional fare and more specialized menus.
Liam and Claire are basically aiming at two groups–family and locals interested in two-course, £5 specials–and the travellers, tourists and day trippers who may want to try something more adventurous and specialized.
Liam Leask–who is from a family of restauranteurs–told me he has plans to add more to the menu and still make some changes to the interior.
From what I’ve seen and tasted, and considering Liam and Claire have only been running the place for three weeks or so, we can expect great things from them. I certainly do.
Liam Leask can be contacted at the Old Cross on Tel: 01250 875502
Martin Horan.
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